R32 GTS-T Auto quite suddenly no longer happy with owner . Power down under load begins bang on 2.5rpm starts cutting out at just past, put your foot into her and she stalls fires stalls fires (Its like being in a martini shaker!). Will rev higher if no load no turbo action (meaning rolling down hill!!!!) Cutting out when turbo spooling up also irrespective of revs, no audiable or visible boost hose holes/leakage or air leakage anywhere. CAR HATES ME RIGHT NOW! Computer is fine. No dash warning lights. Perfectly operational till warm then it's all over. Occasionally at idle (after warm in Park or Neutral) is reving up to 2000rpm back to .5 etc unaided (NO my foot is not 'resting' on the accelerator!) until she finally stalls herself, will rev to 2k in Drive while at standstill then will stall quickly if you don't keep your foot on the gas. This is not something that is happening like clockwork sometimes she is fine all day no hiccups otherdays she just would like to see us taken out by a Mack truck on the highway! Vehicle had clean history till a visit to a dealership in January for a simple service, problems immediately arose after, she wouldn't turn key start 4-5 starter winds before she would fire (I wanted to install a choke after that!) once solved promply she ate a brand new battery for no reason it hasn't happened again. NOW THIS! I have heard catalytic converter maybe blocked can someone confirm before I go pulling my exhaust system appart. Sensors all apear to be functioning normally all for the CONSTANT STALLING!!!! This car is completely stock right down to the wheels it is as it came from Nissan there has been no fiddling appart from the sounds which were professionally installed and never caused a problem. HHHHEEEELLLLLPPPPP!

 

i would personally take it back to the dealership and tell them that every sence they messed with it it has been fussing about there BAD service and that they need to fix what ever it is at no charge. it very well could be a cc. when it comes lose it will block the exhaust pipe backing up the the exhaust. Therefore causing the flow of exhaust to be stoped. It would therefore cause the vehicle to stall out because it couldnt push the flow of used air/feul mixture out of the block. I could be wrong but from what i have heard and what little experiance i have with working on vehicles it could be the cc. but i would still take it back up to the dealership you had it worked on at and have them run a diagnostics at no charge to you. If the person tells you NO then tell them you would like to speak with a manager immediatly. Then ask him to step outside to speak with him or if you could go into his office, you will earn respect for not bad mouthing him infront of there customers...thats what i would honestly do.

 

Thanks for your help. The Nissan dealership in question have refused to take responsibility for the state of my vehicle despite all efforts with the Service Manager or even the Dealer Principal. They refuse to aknowledge they have, whether deliberately or not set off a chain reaction in respect to her sudden unreliability in every area. However I am off tomorrow to a private performance shop and she will be hooked up to DM and dyno tested. I will post the results incase anyone else has the same problem. Thanks again.

 

We have a winner. According to a man in the know based in New Zealand the problem is the coil pack. Heat from the engine and the atmostpheric temperature is interferring with them. I have been told that the flashing (or cover) needs to be vented. One end of the flashing needs to be cut away in order for air to circulate around the coil packs. I have been told to check my plugs for fowling as the computer would have been overcompensating for the miss and gap them to .8 for a stronger spark for the hotter weather in Australia.
The only other thing that can cause this problem is damage to the dry solder in the airflow meter. Now is a good time to point out if anyone is having trouble sourcing coil packs for the R32 (RB20DET) they are basically the same as the Series 1 R33 and will fit the R32 the main difference being the R33 has a carbon fibre centre as apposed to the steel one of the R32. Oh for joy, problem appears to be solved.