Brake Help...
#1
Brake Help...
We just bought my daughter a 1998 Maxima & am needing to put new brakes on this weekend.
I should be able to figure it out but was wanting to see if there was anything I should know about beforehand...problems, tips, etc.
Any special tools needed? What size wrenches? Any help is appreciated!
I should be able to figure it out but was wanting to see if there was anything I should know about beforehand...problems, tips, etc.
Any special tools needed? What size wrenches? Any help is appreciated!
#3
RE: Brake Help...
I was hoping to avoid spending any more $$ than I had to. I did find a print a how to article for it off of Autozone.com.
The main thing I am wondering is , Is there a special socket to remove the pin holding the caliper on? I know every GM product I have done required a male hex type tool. Anything special required on the nissan's?
Any common problems I may run into when changing them?
The main thing I am wondering is , Is there a special socket to remove the pin holding the caliper on? I know every GM product I have done required a male hex type tool. Anything special required on the nissan's?
Any common problems I may run into when changing them?
#4
RE: Brake Help...
Hmm. Go Buy haynes/chilton manureal ...and... spend 3x time figuring out the conflictin confuzean ex plan ations /microscopic hieroglyphs. (=pls, never buy)
All depends how "new brakes" is traslated: pad change is easy ... if rear pistons are rotated when pressing them in.
- Fluids have to be changed every 2yrs (or when visually 'blk').
- ABS connectors cleaned, lubed (see p.14)
- The caliper rails have to be checked for free play, lubed (use 'any suitable lube').
- Buy/insert special brake grease behind piston rubber dust seals - to boost std brake performance over 5%. DO NOT/never use std grease.
See this link: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/18
All depends how "new brakes" is traslated: pad change is easy ... if rear pistons are rotated when pressing them in.
- Fluids have to be changed every 2yrs (or when visually 'blk').
- ABS connectors cleaned, lubed (see p.14)
- The caliper rails have to be checked for free play, lubed (use 'any suitable lube').
- Buy/insert special brake grease behind piston rubber dust seals - to boost std brake performance over 5%. DO NOT/never use std grease.
See this link: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/18
#5
RE: Brake Help...
Thanks a bunch! I will have to take the time to read through all of it.
The car has 150,000 plus miles on it & I have no idea what has been done to it. I will have to look it over thoroughly (her mom bought the car, we are divorced so I did not get to check it out before she bought it)
The car has 150,000 plus miles on it & I have no idea what has been done to it. I will have to look it over thoroughly (her mom bought the car, we are divorced so I did not get to check it out before she bought it)
#7
RE: Brake Help...
ORIGINAL: cbeaur
You will need a special tool to turn the pistons back in on the rear brakes. Can be a PIA if you do not have the tool!!
You will need a special tool to turn the pistons back in on the rear brakes. Can be a PIA if you do not have the tool!!
#9
RE: Brake Help...
ORIGINAL: bassadict69
Thanks for the help...I pulled the brakes & they are fine. My daughter was saying the brakes were squeeking but I think the problem is just cheap semi-metallic pads.
Thanks for the help...I pulled the brakes & they are fine. My daughter was saying the brakes were squeeking but I think the problem is just cheap semi-metallic pads.
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