JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit
#1
JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit
Hello all
I have fitted a JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit and found that i have lost some top end speed? about 15MPH (about 25KMH)
Before i fitted it, i oiled the filter with a K&N oil kit and left the filter 2 days for any excess oil to drip off. When I was fitting the system I disconnect the battery, (to reset the ecu) it was disconnect for about 30 mins.
Apart from the air filter the car has NO other mods!
The air temperature over here is about 10-15 deg C outside
And the car has been fully service to date.
Can anyone out there help in finding my lost 15 MPH?
mark
I have fitted a JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit and found that i have lost some top end speed? about 15MPH (about 25KMH)
Before i fitted it, i oiled the filter with a K&N oil kit and left the filter 2 days for any excess oil to drip off. When I was fitting the system I disconnect the battery, (to reset the ecu) it was disconnect for about 30 mins.
Apart from the air filter the car has NO other mods!
The air temperature over here is about 10-15 deg C outside
And the car has been fully service to date.
Can anyone out there help in finding my lost 15 MPH?
mark
#2
RE: JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit
ECU needs to learn, find how - from FSM. It will learn just by drivin, but takes more miles...
MAF resistors get dirty by the mile, can be cleaned, hlps. Some cleanup etc links http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9
Try going back to original. Is the top speed still missin? Btw. ... youll lose license anyway...
Put temp sensor inside original air intake. Read, write down.
Put temp sensor inside "cold" air intake. Read, write down, compare
Whats the difference? How much that difference is in oxygen content? Can anybody measure any difference in hp - except in dyno (no airflow)...
The original input is already "cold" ... Youll find out that driving over 40mph, the air input temp is about the same, doesnt matter where the air comes in. Check also page2.
MAF resistors get dirty by the mile, can be cleaned, hlps. Some cleanup etc links http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9
Try going back to original. Is the top speed still missin? Btw. ... youll lose license anyway...
Put temp sensor inside original air intake. Read, write down.
Put temp sensor inside "cold" air intake. Read, write down, compare
Whats the difference? How much that difference is in oxygen content? Can anybody measure any difference in hp - except in dyno (no airflow)...
The original input is already "cold" ... Youll find out that driving over 40mph, the air input temp is about the same, doesnt matter where the air comes in. Check also page2.
#3
RE: JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit
Hello with the induction kit fitted i had run the car for about 700 miles before i tried doing a top speed test! Knowing that the ecu will need to now how the car is set up now. I have now refitted the standard air box, without resetting the ecu apart for driving about 200 miles and done a speed test this afternoon. Speed back up to normal.
When I fitted the system the MAF look clean! But I will clean it anyway! What is the best way of doing this?
Mark
When I fitted the system the MAF look clean! But I will clean it anyway! What is the best way of doing this?
Mark
#4
RE: JDM Style Cold Air Intake Induction System Kit
Seems that the JDM restricts airflow. If also accel is worse, why use it?
Low rpm pwr (torque) typically is related to long air intake tubing, high rpm pwr with short.
You dont tell vehicle mileage, age ... MAF heater & measuring resistor get oxidized 'by the mile', changing MAF input to ECU; one needs magnifier & bright light to see that. Electrical component cleaner spray is ok, I also used soft tender brush. That made big difference... on mentioned page there are the links how ppl clean MAF. Note that MAF is not used in WOT, so positive change comes in normal drive pedal response & lower gas consumption.
Airflow is critical: Typically the seals are positioned in a hurrah in the car installation plant: the badly seated seal-edges protruding into channels restrict airflow, check. As stated on page2, airflow in stock vehicles is restricted to dampen noise; opening the filterbox before filter will give significant airflow boost (=hp).
...edited typos...
Low rpm pwr (torque) typically is related to long air intake tubing, high rpm pwr with short.
You dont tell vehicle mileage, age ... MAF heater & measuring resistor get oxidized 'by the mile', changing MAF input to ECU; one needs magnifier & bright light to see that. Electrical component cleaner spray is ok, I also used soft tender brush. That made big difference... on mentioned page there are the links how ppl clean MAF. Note that MAF is not used in WOT, so positive change comes in normal drive pedal response & lower gas consumption.
Airflow is critical: Typically the seals are positioned in a hurrah in the car installation plant: the badly seated seal-edges protruding into channels restrict airflow, check. As stated on page2, airflow in stock vehicles is restricted to dampen noise; opening the filterbox before filter will give significant airflow boost (=hp).
...edited typos...
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