I have 94 Nissan Maxima SE with 130,000 miles. I have owned this car for last 2 years, and it has never given me any problem until today. I did regular tune-up 3 days ago (oil change, NGK platinum spark plugs, air filter, cleaned throttle body) and car run great. However, this evening battery light came ON, and all dashboard indicators are dead (speedometer, temperature indicator, rpm, gas indicator). When I turn the key, there are no any lights ON. However, when I start the car, the battery light immediately comes ON. To make things wierd, the car starts and runs fine. All the lights are working fine. I checked the battery fuse box, and all fuses appeared fine. I would appreciate if someone could give me some imput on what might be wrong, and if anyone experinced a similar proble. My guess is: bad battery, some wire problem between the battery and instrumental panel, or alternator. I am taking my car to my mechanic in two days, and any suggestion would be highly appreciated.

Cheers....Dan

 

No charge voltage causes the lamp to be on. If u just drive, battery empties, car will shut down. Without lights, 60miles drive with full batt should become true...

Fusible link, corroded supply connectors and/or groundings can cause this. At that mileage also alt brushes should already be worn out.

Check pages 5,10, 14 and this http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23

 

I will post an update tomorrow after my mechanic checks the car out.
Thanks for your input...Dan

 

UPDATE: The problem was bad alternator (the regulator was bad). My mechanic replaced the alternator, and the car runs fine now.

My wallet is empty now[&o].......Dan

 

ANOTHER UPDATE:
My Maxima is back to the mechanic. The battery light and other previously described symptoms are back. I guess there is some problem with the electrical system. Appears that something causes the alternator to burn. I am still waiting to see what is wrong. I am wondering if this problem is related to the recent tune-up? My friend suggested that wrong spark plug gap could do it. Any other suggestion in this forum?
Dan

 

Find a place to fill the wallet (tthen tell me where that is)

What is charge voltage? Yes you can check it yourself, gauge costs 10$.

The two alt connectors I already indicated. Are they now cleaned?

 

All connectors were cleaned. The battery voltage is ~12.5 V, and alternator output is ~14 V. However, the alternator current flow is only 0.35 A. My mechanic will take my car tomorrow morning to a car electrics shop to perform some tests. Personally (my mechanics agree with me) I think that there are 3 possibilities here:
1) There is something wrong in the electric circuit that burns the voltage regulator inside the alternator;
2) The alternator itself is OK, but there is a high resistance or short along the wires from the alternator to the battery
3) There is resistance or ground problem between the battery and instrumental panel preventing low-voltage supply (this might be caused by a problem in ignition system). I am
wondering if changing spark plugs could cause this trouble (the problem came a day after tune-up).
I do not have the car at the moment to test it myself. I am waiting to hear tomorrow from my mechanic. If he can't solve the problem, I will ask my money back for the alternator (1 year warrenty), and test everything myself. If I do not find the problem, I will then take the car to Nissan dealership.
I will post an update as soon as I heard from my mechanic.
REISKA...Thanks a lot for your help!!

 

Even if u rip plug wiring, plugchange cannot cause this, other issues (?) accidentally done possibly can.

Direct charge wiring short (like dead batt) can burn the alt reg, nothin else. Resistance and/or disconnection cannot. Direct short (melting, smokin) will not go unnoticed... Check the two white supply connectors at chassis, near alt. Then the fusible link at batt. Then visually the wiring between...

Charge voltage seems to be ok so what is the problem? ...The current flow: from where to...?
Reman alternators and starters have dismal performance record ...and you may get multiple dead devices on row. Take the alt out back to shop for testin.

Ign system: ECU drives directly the coilpacks, cannot be reason behind in charge/dashlight problems... btw, what exactly all the symptoms are at this moment? (cannot figure) I guess engine is runnin (then ign/ECU HAS TO be ok)

Instrument panel lights are behind a fuse, check mentioned page5/your manual. Circuit connected things like water caused short in rear lights will burn it until cause is repaired.

Takin the vehicle to stealership will only make your banker happy... There youll get new alt with (?) 800$ - but luckily that will be a good original Nissan product.